I spent the night here in October 2011 in this stone hut on the way to Kanchenjunga’s North Base Camp KBC-N. There was no other accommodation here for lone trekkers*, everybody else was in a camping trek group here. It was certainly a beautiful place – wide open with plenty of places to find solitude and a vantage point to enjoy the red of the sun on the surrounding peaks.

It was a beautiful place to spend the night too. I had one add-boilding-water-meal and was provided with water in the hut in the half which was home to yak herders. The other half of the hut slept porters in packed rows.

kanchenjunga trek lhonak near basecamp

I remember this night as one of the best on my 10-day Kanchenjunga Trek to North and South basecamps. Why? The company. There was a smokey fire in the hut. After cooking rice and eating, the three men, one woman and baby spent several hours chatting in a local Tibetan dialect (except the baby). The woman’s laugh was an utterly pure, beautiful sound.

I had to press my face against the gaps between the stones to breath fresh air. The smoke was suffocating. The near-full moon drove shafts of bright white light into the smoke through the spaces in the wooden roof which made a scene like the place had been shot up from a helicopter. The morning sun exchanged the vertical, silver shafts of light for golden horizon ones.

The following day I hiked to Pangpema, spent a while soaking in the view, and took a long hike back down to Ghunsa.

* Check in Ghunsa where you should be able to rent a tent and sleeping mats.

  • A Flickr link to images of Lhonak on the Kanchenjunga Trek.
  • A link to images of Lhonak on the Kanchenjunga Trek on Panoramio.


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