I spent the night here in October 2011 in this stone hut on the way to Kanchenjunga’s North Base Camp KBC-N. There was no other accommodation here for lone trekkers*, everybody else was in a camping trek group here. It was certainly a beautiful place – wide open with plenty of places to find solitude and a vantage point to enjoy the red of the sun on the surrounding peaks.
It was a beautiful place to spend the night too. I had one add-boilding-water-meal and was provided with water in the hut in the half which was home to yak herders. The other half of the hut slept porters in packed rows.
I remember this night as one of the best on my 10-day Kanchenjunga Trek to North and South basecamps. Why? The company. There was a smokey fire in the hut. After cooking rice and eating, the three men, one woman and baby spent several hours chatting in a local Tibetan dialect (except the baby). The woman’s laugh was an utterly pure, beautiful sound.
I had to press my face against the gaps between the stones to breath fresh air. The smoke was suffocating. The near-full moon drove shafts of bright white light into the smoke through the spaces in the wooden roof which made a scene like the place had been shot up from a helicopter. The morning sun exchanged the vertical, silver shafts of light for golden horizon ones.
The following day I hiked to Pangpema, spent a while soaking in the view, and took a long hike back down to Ghunsa.
* Check in Ghunsa where you should be able to rent a tent and sleeping mats.
- A Flickr link to images of Lhonak on the Kanchenjunga Trek.
- A link to images of Lhonak on the Kanchenjunga Trek on Panoramio.